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"Declassified" Images of American Military Uniforms in the 70s and 80s: What They Reveal

A Glimpse into Military Fashion

The intersection of military uniforms, fashion, and popular culture has always been a fascinating one, from the widespread use of camouflage prints and bomber jackets to the prevalence of colors like military green and khaki. These styles have recently been showcased in various settings, like the Democratic National Convention and the Lollapalooza Festival.

Matthew Nicol, the author of a new research book titled "Military Uniform," delves into this intersection. While not directly involved in the military himself, he's a dedicated food photographer and editor. His book, published by SPBH Editions, explores the evolution of military clothing into iconic fashion items, tracing its journey from early prototypes to its influence on contemporary styles. The book accompanies a photo exhibition at Les Rencontres d’Arles, a renowned photography festival in France.

The Birth of a Project

Nicol's fascination with this topic stems from his research at the U.S. Army's Natick Soldier Systems Center (NSSC),an active military complex near Boston that focuses on fabric innovation. His work, "Food for Our Fighting Men," a photobook about military meals published in 2022, led him to delve into the archive at NSSC, where he uncovered a vast collection of declassified images.

Among approximately 15,000 images, Nicol selected 350 for his book "Military Uniform." These images depict soldiers from different branches of the military, standing in their official uniforms, showcasing the blend of function and fashion in military attire.

A Timeless Fashion Statement

The book's images, captured between the late 1970s and early 1990s, reflect the period after the Vietnam War and the beginning of the First Gulf War. They showcase a distinct aesthetic that aligns with the sensibilities of the era, influencing contemporary trends.

Despite their initial purpose, these images demonstrate a timeless appeal. Nicol notes that these images resonate with the current fashion landscape, with similar trends appearing in high-end fashion and streetwear. The military's influence on civilian style remains undeniable.

The Military's Lasting Legacy

The influence of military style on fashion is a recurring theme, with subcultures and designers alike adopting its elements.

The military's influence on fashion transcends trends, becoming a constant source of inspiration for designers and fashion enthusiasts. The inherent practicality and utilitarian nature of military clothing have resonated with different generations and subcultures. The enduring influence of military fashion highlights its timeless appeal, making it a recurring theme in the world of design and style.

A Timeless Trend

From the early days of surplus stores to the contemporary fashion shows, military style has found its place in various forms of expression.

From surplus stores to high-end designers, military style continues to inspire and shape fashion trends. This enduring influence demonstrates the timeless appeal of military aesthetics, a testament to its lasting impact on the world of design and style.