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"Doburoku": Japan's Controversial Alcoholic Beverage Makes a Comeback

While Japanese whiskey, "nihonshu" (sake),and beer are globally recognized beverages, a Tokyo bar is reviving "doburoku", an ancient and controversial alcoholic drink in Japan's history.

A Glimpse into the Past

Located in the Nihombashi district of eastern Tokyo, the "Heiwa Doburoku Kabutocho Brewery" offers a unique experience. During the Edo period (1603 - 1868),this area thrived due to boats transporting "sake". Recognizing this historical connection, "Heiwa Shuzou", a sake brewery operating since 1928 in Wakayama prefecture, opened a specialized bar serving the rare "doburoku" in one of Tokyo's upscale neighborhoods.

Understanding "Doburoku"

The history of "doburoku" is as mysterious as the drink itself. Often considered a precursor to "sake", it is not coincidental that the Japanese word "doburoku" includes characters signifying "cloudy" or unrefined, implying an unfiltered alcoholic beverage. To differentiate this unfiltered Japanese alcohol from the common clear "sake", two distinct categories exist: "seishu", the transparent "sake", and "doburoku".

The Production Process

The key difference lies in the production processes of "sake" and "doburoku". Traditional "sake" production uses a yeast starter called "shubo", incorporating three primary ingredients: steamed rice, "kouji" (fermented rice mold),and water over several days. In contrast, "doburoku" involves adding all ingredients, including the yeast starter, simultaneously, resulting in a higher sugar content in the mixture. The sugars then initiate yeast breakdown, halting fermentation early. This leaves a sweet liquid with a lower alcohol content, officially known as "doburoku".

Controversial Origins

"Doburoku" has existed since rice cultivation began in Japan, favored by farmers and Shinto priests alike. Its relatively simple recipe made it widespread in rural areas, with home-brewing practices continuing for centuries. In 1855, Edo alone had 459 "doburoku" producers.

The end of the Edo period saw feudal lords relinquishing their territorial domains to the centralized Meiji government headquartered in the new capital, Tokyo. This profound shift in governance resulted in highly organized institutions, including a structured tax collection system. Recognizing licensed breweries and distilleries as a vital revenue source for the new government, measures were introduced to curb home-brewing. In 1880, restrictions were placed on homemade alcoholic beverages, followed by a licensing system in 1882. A tax on all home-brewed alcoholic beverages was imposed in 1896, leading to a complete ban on home-brewed beverages in 1899.

A Resurgence in Popularity

Since then, any "doburoku" has been called "mitsushuzou", meaning "secretly produced alcohol". However, even during prohibition, "doburoku" persisted in Japan. Shinto temples continued to use the beverage in their rituals. Post-World War II, "makgeolli", a Korean unfiltered version of "doburoku" made from rice, wheat, barley, and water, became a popular substitute due to the shortage of "sake".

While home-brewing remains illegal, the Japanese government relaxed regulations, allowing inns and restaurants, especially in economically depressed regions, to commercially sell "doburoku" in 2003. As of 2021, 193 facilities nationwide are licensed to sell "doburoku", signifying a revival of this once-banned beverage.